Hot Tamales
Origins of the Rodriguez Tamale
My maternal grandparents came to the States with one main dream and just one goal — to give their children a good education. Through hardships and many years, they accumulated enough money as was needed before entering the United States. It was a requirement that an escrow deposit for each member of the family be established and that could not be claimed for five years.
During the their first year after arrival, my grandfather was given bad advice that resulted in his losing much of their accumulated savings. Not losing hope, he turns to rolling tamales for a living, which was very demeaning. But he would exclaim, "El que no se arriezzga, nunca alcanza!," which translates to "nothing ventured, nothing gained."
Miguel Rodriguez became the first Hot Tamale vendor in the New Orleans area. Not only did he make tamales for his brood of nine children to sell while manning a cart; but after school they also learned to cook and roll tamales to sell to other street vendors, such as Manuel, who more often was credited with being the first Tamalier.
At West End Park on the banks of Lake Pontchartrain, were several seafood restaurants in addition to a huge water fountain that steamed with tall gushes while colored lights played upon the dancing spray.
This was the setting that had piqued the interest of Miguel Rodriguez, who in 1925, had learned his new trade, the tamale vending business.
The Rodriguez Tamale
Miguel Jose' Rodriguez de Vega, more familiarly known as Llallo (Yayo), approached Cap'n Bruning, who, in addition to being a partner in Bruning's Restaurant, was also the local political pundit. He negotiated an agreement with Bruning to sell homemade tamales from Hot Tamale Carts. Each cart was transportable on two wheels with two extended wooden handle bars used to lift the wagon from its two support legs. Each cart uniquely had a sliding top which provided access to one, or the other, of two compartments, each storing a heated pot of Hot Tamales. The compartment wells were lined with newspapers for insulation, which adequately kept the tamale pots warm. Affixed to each cart was a Coleman lantern, both to serve food by and provide a bright beacon to prospective customers. This man was the progenitor of the Rodriguez Family — known by us, simply as, Papá.
It was from these beginnings that a dynasty was born. My mother, the eldest of the Rodriguez daughters, had her tamale wagon manifested and rooted at West End Park. With the exception of the eldest son and the eldest daughter, my mother, all the remaining siblings went on to graduate from colleges with tuition monies accrued from Tamale sales.
All but one of my mother’s children graduated from college, some with Master’s Degrees. Only the youngest, who rebelled, did not complete or compete for what was offered him. During the valleys of my mother’s life, she would resort to tamale production which as before, contributed to furthering the education of yet another generation.
My first assignment in my grandparent’s tamale “factory” was to help clean the corn shucks. The husks had already been cut from the ears of corn, were dried but not unfolded. Each leaf had to be unraveled and cleaned of the tassel hairs and corn dust. The leaves were then dropped into a large pot of warm water. At age 4, it was my job to step into the pot and mash down the leaves into the water to soften them. Much like the barefoot maidens of Europe tending the grape crushing vats.
Always alert, I watched the assembly line process of my family elders who took turns in the family kitchen for an hour or two at a time. The soften and cleaned shucks were cut to size and stacked to dry off.
Another would place a husk upon the left hand palm and with a butter knife, spread the “Masa” (mais, cornmeal) laid out on the lower left 2/3 portion. Then placed in a stack near the large pan of pre-cooked ground meat.
While another would pick up a masa covered shuck and place just the right amount of meat into the center. The husk leaf was then rolled up like a cigar with its tail end folded over and placed on a flat tray.
Then, my grandfather would take each tamale and position it in the bottom of a large pot, lining it up with the others in flat in rows of layers. He would also keep a mental count since each made up a dozen — and a dozen brought in ten cents. Ten cents was a lot of money in those days.
The completed pot was placed on the stove for further cooking for the next two or three hours, while other pots were removed and placed in cardboard boxes lined with newspaper for insulation. Mr. Joe or Mr. Manuel each day would knock at the back door to pick up their tamale allotment for sale at major intersections in New Orleans.
Original Rodriguez Tamale Reincarnated
The above process is the same all over as folks make their own tamales. The difference is in the preparation of the “Masa” and the “Meat.” The “Rodriguez Tamale” has its own secret recipe. Since my mother’s death in 1996, Rodriguez Tamales ceased to exist, except when her husband, Miguel, made them at Christmas time --- but after Katrina, he went to California.
Recently, I attempted to make them while here in the Ozarks in May 2006. I was prompted as a result of having tasted a number of tamales made by different Mexican families and restaurants. Not at all satisfied with the taste, texture, or dining pleasure, I challenged myself to the task. Other than having eaten thousands and thousands of tamales through out my years, mind you, cleaning husks at age 4 and observations as a kid was all that I had — plus the memory of the savoring taste of a Real Tamale.
At my first attempt, I was pleased. I was within the 85 percent mark. But, the corn shuck was too stiff, the masa was not pasty enough, and the meat didn't have the right flavor.
My mother “talked” to me and coaxed and coached me through the next process. Voila! I reincarnated the “Rodriguez Tamale” — a Real Tamale! A glorious, golden jewel of a succulent, savoring tamale.
My Master’s Degree and my many completed hours toward a Ph.D. have finally paid off.
Taste Testers who have given the Golden Award to local Tamalier
Al Hooks, Photographer, Realtor, Entrepreneur -- formerly of New Orleans
Mike and Andrew Hamilton of Pinehill Restaurant -- formerly of San Antonio
Gene Theriot, Retired Po-Boy Restaurateur -- formerly of Chalmette
There are many more standing in line!
